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The Untoxed Journal
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The complete guide to switching your personal care routine

By Untoxed Health Editorial Team7 September 2024

The average adult applies nine personal care products before leaving the house in the morning: cleanser, moisturiser, sunscreen, deodorant, shampoo, conditioner, body wash, toothpaste, and at least one styling product. Each product contains multiple chemical ingredients. Many of those ingredients are absorbed through the skin, inhaled as fragrance molecules, or ingested in small quantities. Unlike chemicals that pass through the digestive system and undergo first-pass metabolism in the liver, compounds absorbed transdermally can reach the bloodstream more directly. Personal care products are not a minor exposure category. For most people, they are the primary one.

Why personal care is the highest-priority exposure category

There are three factors that make personal care products a higher exposure concern than most kitchen or household sources. First, frequency: these products are applied every single day, often multiple times. Second, surface area: body lotion, sunscreen, and body wash are applied to large proportions of the body surface, meaning total absorbed dose is significant even if the concentration of a given compound is low. Third, leave-on duration: the most problematic exposures come not from products rinsed off within seconds but from those that remain on skin for hours.

The Environmental Working Group estimates that the average adult uses nine personal care products daily, containing a combined 126 unique chemical ingredients. Multiple studies using biomonitoring data from the National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey (NHANES) have found correlations between product use and urinary concentrations of endocrine-disrupting compounds including parabens, phthalates, and benzophenones. Controlled studies in which participants switched to lower-chemical personal care products for just three days showed measurable reductions in urinary paraben and phthalate concentrations within that short window.

The fragrance loophole

Under US law, cosmetics manufacturers are not required to disclose individual fragrance ingredients. The word “fragrance” or “parfum” on an ingredient list is a legal umbrella term that can represent a mixture of up to 3,000 different chemical compounds. The exemption was originally designed to protect proprietary formulations, but in practice it means consumers cannot evaluate the safety of the fragrance component of any product from label information alone.

Many fragrance ingredients are phthalates, particularly diethyl phthalate (DEP), which is used as a carrier and fixative. Phthalates are endocrine disruptors with well-documented anti-androgenic effects. Synthetic musks such as galaxolide and tonalide are also common fragrance ingredients. These are lipophilic compounds that accumulate in body fat and have been detected in human breast milk. The fragrance industry self-regulates through the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), which restricts some ingredients but still permits many compounds that are known sensitisers with documented hormonal activity.

An important distinction: “fragrance-free” is not the same as “unscented.” Unscented products often contain masking fragrances that neutralise the natural odour of the base ingredients. These are still synthetic fragrance chemicals, present in the product but not individually disclosed. Fragrance-free means no fragrance ingredients of any kind were added. When switching, look for “fragrance-free,” not “unscented.”

Leave-on versus rinse-off: why the order matters

Not all personal care products carry equal exposure risk. The relevant variable is contact time. Rinse-off products, including shampoo, conditioner, body wash, and face wash, are on the skin or scalp for seconds to a few minutes before being washed away. Leave-on products remain on the skin for hours. For a body lotion applied after showering, the skin contact time can be 16 or more hours before the next wash. The difference in dermal absorption is substantial.

Deodorant merits particular attention. It is applied to armpit skin, which is thinner than most body skin and in close proximity to lymph nodes. It is a leave-on product applied daily and typically not washed off until the following shower. Sunscreen is also high priority because it is applied to a very large surface area and left on for extended periods. Face moisturiser is applied daily to facial skin, which some studies find has higher permeability than body skin. These three products, deodorant, sunscreen, and body moisturiser, should be the first priority for switching.

Reading an INCI list

INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It is the standardised naming system used on cosmetics labels internationally. Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration, with the most abundant ingredients first. Water (listed as “Aqua”) is almost always first. Preservatives and fragrance compounds typically appear towards the end of the list because they are present in small concentrations, but small concentration does not mean negligible biological effect: parabens act as oestrogen mimics at very low concentrations.

The EWG Skin Deep database (ewg.org/skindeep) and the Think Dirty app allow you to search any product or ingredient and see hazard ratings based on available research. Both tools have limitations: Skin Deep's ratings reflect data availability as much as inherent hazard, and Think Dirty's scoring system is somewhat opaque. Used with those caveats in mind, they are useful starting points for identifying problematic ingredients in products you already own.

Ingredients to avoid

Several ingredient categories have accumulated sufficient evidence to warrant routine avoidance. Parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben) are preservatives that mimic oestrogen and have been detected in breast tumour tissue in multiple studies, though a causal role in cancer is not established. Phthalates, most commonly disguised under “fragrance” or “parfum,” are anti-androgenic endocrine disruptors with well-documented effects on male reproductive development in animal studies and associations with reduced testosterone in epidemiological research. Sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) strips the skin's natural lipid barrier, increasing permeability to other compounds and acting as an irritant that worsens over time.

Synthetic musks (galaxolide, tonalide, musk ketone) accumulate in fatty tissue and have been found in human breast milk, blood, and adipose tissue globally. Oxybenzone, a UV filter used in chemical sunscreens, was found by the FDA in a 2020 study to reach detectable blood concentrations within 30 minutes of a single application to 75% of body surface area, and to persist for 21 days after use. Triclosan, an antimicrobial agent, disrupts thyroid hormone signalling and contributes to antibiotic resistance; it was banned from hand soaps in the US in 2016 but remains in some toothpastes.

How to switch: a priority-ordered list

1

Switch deodorant first

Choose a product that is aluminium-free and fragrance-free. Aluminium compounds in conventional antiperspirants block sweat glands and have raised concerns about absorption near breast tissue. Fragrance-free eliminates the phthalate and synthetic musk exposure from this daily leave-on product.

2

Switch body lotion or oil

Body lotion applied daily to large skin surface areas is a high-exposure product. Switching to an unfragranced natural oil (such as unrefined coconut oil, sweet almond oil, or jojoba oil) or a simple fragrance-free lotion eliminates multiple problematic ingredient categories at once.

3

Switch sunscreen to a mineral formula

Replace chemical UV filters (oxybenzone, octinoxate, avobenzone) with a mineral sunscreen using zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as the active ingredient. These sit on the skin surface rather than being absorbed. Look for fragrance-free formulas with minimal additional ingredients.

4

Switch face moisturiser

Choose a fragrance-free moisturiser with a short ingredient list. Look for Aqua near the top, emollients in the middle, and no parabens or synthetic fragrance. Products with fewer than ten total ingredients are generally preferable.

5

Switch shampoo and conditioner

Although these are rinse-off products, switching to fragrance-free formulas reduces daily inhalation of fragrance compounds and scalp absorption during the contact period. Avoid SLS in shampoo and look for fragrance-free conditioners without parabens.

6

Switch laundry detergent

Clothing rests against skin for all waking hours. Fragrance compounds in laundry detergent transfer to fabric and then to skin over the course of a full day of wearing. Switching to a fragrance-free, dye-free laundry detergent eliminates a chronic low-level skin contact exposure that most people do not consider.

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